Deer Management, Inc.
Are you tired of listening to your neighbors and friends who seem to harvest trophy deer every year? Wouldn't you like to go into the coffee shop with the pictures of your trophy deer? Wouldn't you like to hang that big deer in your den or hunting cabin so that all your friends could see him? Wouldn't it be great to be able to attract, hold and grow trophy bucks right by your stand? Well, we have spent the past fourteen years researching a method for accomplishing just that. Our Complete System can help you reach your goals.
There are no shortcuts to attracting, holding and growing trophy deer. We will start with the information you will have to know and understand to be successful in your goal of growing trophy deer. Please do not skip through this information. Read it over and over until you understand what it takes, then take that knowledge and put it to work for you.
Five Steps for Success
It takes five things to achieve success as an experienced wildlife manager. It takes knowledge, products, practice, patience and persistence.
1. Knowledge: Knowledge is what you will gain understanding all of the information you are about to read. Knowledge alone will not allow you to learn to play the piano, nor will it give you the ability to grow trophy size deer. You will need to do more than just read and understand information.
2. Products: Just as a piano player will need a piano, a person who is going to grow those trophy deer will need tools and Products. Knowledge will help you to decide which tools and Products will best help you achieve your goals.
3. Practice: Now that you are armed with this knowledge and equipment, you will need to Practice to gain that experience.
4. Patience: You are going to have to be Patient. You will not learn to play the piano overnight and also with growing those trophy deer, you must take time and be Patient.
5. Persistence: To grow trophy deer, you will have to do a series of things. Some things will need a little maintenance. This is not a gimmick or magical trick or magical potion. This really works and requires some effort.
What's It Take to Grow Trophy Bucks?
Ask yourself what it takes for a deer to grow a trophy set of antlers. The three primary factors that affect antler development are age, genetics and most importantly, nutrition. A buck does not reach his full body size until three years of age, and during these first years, body growth takes precedence over antler development. After age three, a buck will have his best antlers. The most difficult factor to manage in wild populations is Genetics. You cannot look into genetic problems until you have a balanced buck/doe ratio and you have solved your nutrition problems. Nutrition is the one factor that you can have a major impact on.
It would be nice if we could just make it rain as we needed it. Some people have not looked at antler growth in conjunction with plant growth. Let's say the antler base and width grow for 60 days. If there is good moisture and nutrients, antlers will grow bigger and wider. If there is little moisture and nutrients, antlers will not have a chance to grow as big or as wide in that same 60 days. The next 60 days determine diameter and the length of the first two or three tines and will insure that the main beam maintains its large diameter. The last 60 days will finish the last tines, determine the outer most part of the main beam, and prevent those antlers from turning in at the last few inches. It's usually dry during the summer and that is why we don't see those last tines develop and mature. That's why those swamp bucks and river bottom bucks are always bigger bodied and sport bigger antlers. Water is more important than most hunters realize because it has a huge impact on nutrition.
The organic makeup of antlers during the growing stage is almost entirely protein. Even after mineralization (hardening) is complete, a good portion of protein remains in these antlers. To grow the best set of antlers that his genetics and age will allow, a deer needs food containing at least 16% to 18% "digestible" crude protein. (Not all proteins are digestible to a deer.) The most important factor in growing trophy antlers is to provide the buck with nutrient rich food during the growth period from April through October.
Calcium is another element needed by deer during and after the antler growth period. Although a deer can borrow calcium from bones in other parts of his body and utilize it for antler growth, he still needs foods that contain a minimum of 0.45% calcium.
Phosphorus is also needed for antler growth. Although dietary phosphorus requirements are not completely known, it is believed that the lowest level a deer needs for adequate antler growth and other body functions is 0.30%.
Vitamin D is important in promoting calcium absorption and mineralization of bone. A deer gets all the Vitamin D he needs by absorbing ultraviolet light through its skin and eating vegetation that has been in direct sunlight.
Vitamin A is important to antler development once the bone hardening begins. Carotenes in "green" leaves can be converted to Vitamin A. Green leaves can become scarce during the winter months, but remain an important part of the deer's diet.
The point we are trying to get across is that if you do not have the proper nutrient levels in the natural vegetation, for your deer herd to feed on, your deer will not properly develop. More than fourteen years of research went into finding the correct nutrient combination. This program was developed to provide those nutrients. Please do not try to substitute any part of this program with something else.
When we started working to find a way to grow trophy deer, we didn't have as much information as you just read. We didn't know which nutrients were needed nor the amount of each. We just knew we needed to improve the natural vegetation on the properties we were working on. It only made sense because all the big trophy deer were found in areas where the soil was rich. The nutrient-rich soil grew nutrient-rich vegetation. The deer ate this nutrient-rich vegetation and grew big bodies and big antlers. We assumed all we had to do was to fertilize the vegetation that the deer were feeding on and we would get rich selling our idea. Fourteen years and hundreds of failed attempts later, we finally are able to unlock the secrets to growing Big Rack Bucks!
A plant receives 90% of everything it needs from air, sunlight and water. Moisture droplets rise into the air collecting nutrients and micronutrients. They collect and form clouds and then fall as raindrops. As these drops of rain fall through the air, they pick up more nutrients and then penetrate into the soil. As they move through the soil, (actually they move through the air spaces in the soil) they pick up more nutrients. They carry these nutrients to the roots of the plants, then the plant takes them up into its system. Add a little sun (which fuels the plant's processing factory) and a little air and that is how simple it is. Then why doesn't it work as easy as it sounds? Let's look at what problems in the soil can slow or even stop nutrient flow to the plants.
Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC): Cation exchange capacity (measured in megs) is the ability for a plant to take up and utilize positively charged nutrients in the soil. If we are going to have nutrient rich vegetation, we need to have a good CEC.
Soil pH: Soil that has a low pH (acid) will lock up nutrients in the soil. Most soils reach their maximum cation exchange capacity when the soil pH is around 6.5. Remember, if there are nutrients locked up in the soil, the plant cannot take them up. We can't express strongly enough the importance of proper soil pH. A simple lime application will bring the pH level back to the desired 6.5.
Soil Type: The CEC will also be affected by the type of soil that you have. For instance, some sandy soils have a CEC of five megs per 100g and good organic soils will have a CEC of 100 megs per 100g. By changing your soil type, you can improve your CEC 2,000%! Plants there will be able to take up and utilize 20 times as many nutrients and micro-nutrients. As you begin to work with the reservoir system and Super Juice, this knowledge will help you better understand what is happening beneath the soil surface.
Water Holding Capacity: Another important factor in your soil is its ability to take in and store moisture. You see, most nutrients are carried to the plant by water. Your plants will stop growing when the water in the soil is gone. During middle and late summer, we usually experience a dry spell. Some plants will become dormant and lose some of their nutritional value. During spring when rainfall is usually at its maximum, plants are at their nutritional best. Certain plants are better able to grow during dry spells. These are the plants that attract deer. If you look at antler development, you can usually tell where there has been good or bad months of rain.
Extractable Soil Nutrients: Some soils are more nutrient rich than other soils. Organic material in mineral soil is important in improving the cation exchange capacity, the water holding capacity, and in providing many more nutrients and micronutrients. Some clay soils are nutrient-rich, but during the dry months they become as hard as concrete. A quick summer shower will not be able to penetrate and just runs off. This clay barrier becomes a tomb for the plants that are trying to grow. Root systems are not as extensive as they need to be to provide moisture during the dry seasons. The plants and the animals that depend on them for food will not be able to receive the nutrition needed to grow to full potential.
Nutrient Antagonisms: Sometimes nutrients will cause other nutrients to become locked up in the soils. For instance if you have too much potassium in the soil, you will lock up magnesium. The problem is not that there is a shortage of magnesium. The problem is that too much potassium locked up all the magnesium. Sometimes it has to do with the type of nutrient. Nitrogen is a nutrient that is guilty of this because there are different sources of nitrogen. We discussed how important that calcium is in growing antlers, but did you know that certain types of nitrates will lock up calcium in the soil?
Never think that all you have to do is "fertilize natural vegetation" and you will be growing big antlers. If that "fertilizer" is not designed and formulated to allow those plants to take up and utilize the right nutrients, all you are going to achieve is to grow a good crop of weeds. Super Juice (our product) was selected and mixed to allow the natural vegetation to extract and store the nutrients that are needed to grow big bodies and antlers.
We have probably said enough about the scientific part of growing big antlers to confuse the average or above average hunter. We do not want to scare you off, we only want you to understand that what we have developed will not be duplicated any time soon. You should also understand a little more about why you do not see as many big rack bucks anymore.
Fall and Winter Forage: In the fall our natural vegetation begins to change. This change is caused mainly by the reduced amount of sun due to the shorter days. Some plants, such as trees, lose their leaves, while other plants die all the way back to their root systems. They will begin growing again next spring. Because of this, no matter what the mix of herbs, leaves, and grasses, a deer cannot live for an extended period of time. That deer is always drawing from fat reserves that have been stored from nutritional intake during spring, summer and fall. Remember this important fact: No matter what you plant for winter food plots, they are doing almost nothing to keep your deer herd healthy. If you are not providing spring, summer and fall food plots, you will never have trophy deer on average property. During dry spells in late summer, nutrition levels will fall below what that trophy deer needs. Do not think only in terms of growing big antlers on mature bucks. Remember, the fawn buck also needs that nutrient rich milk to get a good start in life. If you do not get body sizes up during those first three years, you will limit how much antler development you can achieve.
There were times over the past few years when we thought we would never find the solution to some of these problems. We not only found solutions to all of these problems, but we did it so you could afford to do it also. Our feeding system will produce a protein rich food that has all of the needed nutrients, and produces its own feed. You don't have to buy feed for it. It will automatically feed the deer during the spring, summer and fall while you are somewhere else fishing. Best of all, you can legally hunt over our feeding systems.* And, it will attract deer from neighboring properties.
* You should check with your local wildlife authorities concerning the legality of enhancing naturally occurring deer foods in your area. Also, contact the U.S. Forest Service or the appropriate agencies before following these practices on public lands.
About every study done over the past ten years has shown that nutrition is the most important factor in growing trophy deer. Even if your buck/doe ratio is out of balance, you will still be able to harvest deer that will weigh over 225 pounds and have antlers that score over 170 points. The problem has never been whether it can be accomplished, the problem has been how to afford it.
A study done using 25 buck fawns collected throughout Alabama in 1989 shows just this: The fawns were fenced and fed a balanced pelletized feed. At age three, the average weight of the deer was 214 pounds. (The average Alabama deer weighs 65-70 lbs.) Four of these deer weighed over 235 pounds. Five of the bucks had massive antlers with an inside spread of more than 20 inches. Pretty impressive considering that the deer were not even mature yet.
The problem was the cost of getting the deer to this size. This was in a fenced-in area where they didn't have to worry about the neighbor's deer eating this pelletized feed and then going back home. Since a deer will consume about five pounds of feed per 100 pounds of body weight daily, it would cost more than $1.00 a day per deer to feed your deer herd - $365.00 per year per deer. That's for your deer plus any other deer that has access to your property. If you are feeding ten deer, it would cost you over $3,600.00 to feed them for a year. If you have 100 deer, it will cost you over $36,000.00 to feed them for a year. As you can see, cost is a limiting factor. Other animals will also eat your feed and your deer will eat other vegetation which will affect growth and development.
With Rack Buck Deer Management, you can achieve those same goals at a cost of a few dollars per acre. When you first get started, it costs less than that. You can begin with a small amount and increase as you need to achieve better and better bucks.
You should usually begin with a property survey to determine population density, quantity of natural vegetation that the deer will be feeding on, and variety of natural vegetation found on that property. We will be working mainly with deer feed that grows on vines. Their roots are in the ground in one small area while the leaves and stems (deer feed) will spread over a large area. This way we can produce a large volume of feed, while using a small piece of property.
Let's take a quick look at how a deer's digestive system works so we can better understand what it is going to take to supply our deer herd with all of the nutrition to grow to trophy size. A deer is a ruminant, which means it has a four-stage stomach system and chews a cud. Unlike a cow which lives on mostly grasses, a deer needs browse, or a mixture of grasses, leaves, woody stems, nuts and seeds. After consuming the proper mixture, he will regurgitate this food and re-chew (mix and grind) and swallow it to the next stage in his stomach. This causes a bacterial action that begins to break down his food. The variety of the mixture is as important as the grindings. Never think you can get by working with only one type of summer food.
Honeysuckle is the #1 deer food found throughout most of the United States. It produces a lot of feed, is easily transplanted and is able to take up and utilize many nutrients and micro-nutrients. Planted on our system, honeysuckle will carry between 16 and 24% crude protein. Wild samples that we tested on the same property carried only 8 - 12% crude protein. Our honeysuckle leaves weighed up to four times as much as the wild honeysuckle on that same property. They also produced many more leaves and grew at a tremendous rate. During the winter in Alabama, our leaves were 15.75% protein. For this reason, we like to plant honeysuckle on our systems.
Greenbriar is a very important winter-time food for deer throughout the United States. There are several different species of greenbriar and the deer seem to eat them all. Some have leaves that stay green even in the coldest weather and others that lose their leaves as soon as the days begin to get short. We like to have a few vines of greenbriar on our systems as well. Raspberry, blackberry and dewberry vines are important deer food, but greenbriar grows on vines that produce much more food.
Grape vines are also a good deer food and are found throughout the United States. The deer love to eat the leaves all summer long. The leaves usually fall early in the winter, and we won't get to hunt over it, but it is an important, nutrient-rich food source.
Acorns are another very important deer food, especially throughout the fall and winter months. Deer move to the oak trees after the green vegetation is gone in the fall, which makes these trees a very good place to hunt around.
We have told you about some of the important nutrients and micronutrients that a deer needs to grow big antlers. You have also learned a little about how complicated the soil interactions can be. When you think about growing trophy deer, stop and think about all the many things that it takes, and more importantly, how very complicated the whole nutritional process is.
Our Complete System incorporates all these things that no one else has even thought about. It will very simply, quickly and inexpensively bring the soil pH under control, maximize the CEC and minimize the nutrient antagonisms. And, our Super Juice will add the nutrients and micronutrients to the soil so that the plants can take them up and so the deer can utilize them. This system is at its best at the most crucial time, when the deer and his antlers are growing.
The best thing about our Complete System is that it comes to your door ready to install. We have all the carefully-selected materials pre-measured and easy to follow instructions included. Not only that, but all you need to start with is a small trench 12" x 16" x 10' and not several acres. Add a couple of inches of soil between each layer, plant the enclosed honeysuckle plants on top, give them a little water, and you are ready to attract and grow trophy deer. You can also use our unique formula of Super Juice on single trees, vines, shrubs and briars to draw deer to your hunting stand. Kit Information
Fourteen years of private, field-tested research, along with several years of university studies, have led us to the ultimate nutritional system for growing trophy bucks!
Order your Rack Buck Deer Management Complete System today!
Reservoir System - Feeding Instructions
Thank you for purchasing the Rack Buck Deer Management, Inc. Complete System. This system, with a little patience and persistence, will help you with your goal of attracting, holding and growing big-bodied, trophy deer.
Maintenance of the system is simple. You will need to Juice the system about every 60 days (depending on the amount of rainfall you receive). All you have to do is add two one-pound bags of Super Juice granules (4 - 8 oz. cups) to a 55-gallon drum and fill with water. Using a 10' section of garden hose, you can siphon the water right into the trench.
Carefully remove the cap from the upright pipe. Insert the garden hose all the way down into the 55-gallon drum; wait a few seconds for it to fill with water; hold your thumb over the end of the hose; pull the hose out until you are below the bottom of the drum and release your thumb. You will have it flowing. Put the end of the hose over the pipe. Don't worry if it leaks. The important thing is that you are filling the trench. It should only take 15 minutes to empty the 55 gallons. Refill the drum with water and continue adding water until it won't take anymore, if you have time. We recommend at least 100 gallons per 20' system per juicing. (Note: You can use any size tank you want. We use a 55 gallon drum as a standard example.)
If you live in a very dry area or you experience a drought, you should "Juice" your system every month with a half-rate of Super Juice. Just take a one-pound bag (2 - 8 oz. cups) of Super Juice and add it to 55 gallons of water. If access is limited, you can carry water from a nearby source using a bucket. Pour 55 gallons of water into the pipe using a funnel.
You should also put plenty of water around each of the plants. Simply take the hose off the pipe while it is still running and water the plants. It doesn't hurt to thoroughly wet the entire top of the system with part of the water. Return the hose to the reservoir pipe and continue filling.
If you have experienced very wet conditions, and the system will probably not hold 55 gallons of water, mix the Super Juice in a five gallon bucket of water. Pour this mixture in the upright pipe, then add water until the system will hold no more.
If you have any questions, please call us. We will be glad to offer assistance.
Rack Buck Deer Management, Inc.
Treat Super Juice as you would any fertilizer. Please:
KEEP OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN.
This product contains Boron and Molybdenum. Crops sensitive to either or both may be harmed.
Plants that contain excess Molybdenum are toxic to some ruminant livestock.